Tour de Talus
Originally Posted at Ten Fingers 6 Strings
A climbing party must embrace three critical elements to ensure a successful and enjoyable peak-bagging trip in the Sierras: 1) copious amounts of hilarious banter often supported by a barrage of movie quotes, 2) good music–gansta rap (preferrably of the filthiest nature, ala Too Short) and hard rock/metal that just plain rocks and 3) pre- and post-trip food. These three elements were in plentiful supply as we drove from San Francisco out to Bishop and up to trailhead of Piute Pass. You will later see that conventional logic that would require items like ropes, maps and even shelter aren’t always indicative of success or “fun” in what I like to call “New Climbing.”
The team consisted of Eddie, Rich and me. Rich is passionate climber with many peaks notched onto his Sierra belt and he gained rock solid credibility with me last year when he suggested that I climb Point Powell–that climb became one of the single greatest outdoor moments in my life. Under no circumstance could this trip have been completed without the presence of one of my dearest friends and frequent climbing partner: Eddie.
Our goal of climbing Mt. Humphreys on the second day would require Eddie and me to sack up and attempt our first Class 4 climb. Rich pacified our apprehension (and whining) by bringing his rope, nuts and some rappel slings in case we freaked out. I felt good enough in the planning stages to volunteer to lead the climb, but we’d have to wait to see if the strength of my spine matched the width of volume of my mouth when we got there.
Equipment Check
Eddie has been a bit of a vagabond the last few years with all of his personal belongings stretched out in three different, personally convenient, yet not very strategic, locations in and around San Francisco. Just before leaving, he searched and searched and could not find his sleeping bag, thus requiring him to make a last minute purchase: the Slumberjack.

The revelation of the Slumberjack (which at one point in its life-cycle served as a parachute in the gay pride parade) caused Rich and I to wake up the entire campground* with our hysterical laughter. I even managed to shoot a sunflower seed out of my nose causing it to rub raw for the next few days.
Morning came early enough and we got a nice casual start onto the trail headed to Piute Pass. It was a gorgeous morning: still, clear, very warm and the sky was cobalt blue. This serenity was enough to make me forget that I’d committed to leading the class four pitch on Humphreys–however the serenity was quickly and thoroughly destroyed by the barrage of methane bombs released from our climbing group due to taco chomping that was done at La Villa in Tracy the afternoon before.
It didn’t take long for our eager climbing party to reach Piute Pass, which was one of the easiest passes I’ve ever experienced; long, gradual slopes with a very clear trail. It even had steps carved into the granite set at perfect intervals, that is, if you were either a midget or eight-foot tall sasquatch. Unfortunately for us normal sized bipeds, they continually broke our stride causing us to mumble short-terse obsenities at the National Parks brainchild who came up with the idea.

The slow slopes leading up to Piute Pass sits just over Rich’s shoulder




“I had to stop to take some pictures. I got a sweet picture of the talus.”
“Yes! Let me take some pictures of you and Eddie standing on top of the sweet talus.”


Rich on top of Alpine Col

Eddie and Me on top of Alpine Col

About halfway, we ran into Rich as he was looking equally nervous and perplexed. I saw two potential routes down where I knew they’d reach the flat without cliffing out. Rich slowly treversed a giant slab across while I scoped the bottom claiming I’d found the way. Ed and I conferred and he didn’t like the first choice at all, which was littered with gravel on top of the granite. It would be like climbing a 50-degree slope on top of marbles. Rich came over and I pointed at the route.
“There it is. Once you get down that part, you…”
“F–k you!”
“I guess we’ll go the other way then.”
I looked down and although a huge boulder was blocking my view, the granite was firm and clean. I told them that I’d go down and scope it out.
I made it down about 100 feet of tricky, but clean down-climbing, and finished the first part by treversing the big boulder that was blocking our view. From there I saw that we’d have a sketchy, but doable down climb along a ledge whose south side dropped off 300 feet to the deck. After each pitch, I’d climb down, turn around and talk Eddie down, then he’d dow the same for Rich as I began the next pitch. We did this until the final pitch, which included an airy ballet move where you swung across a deep crack reach a nice juggy hand hold over a 20-degree slab that would take you to the bottom. This is what most of the route looked like from the bottom:


Rich, “How ’bout we call it ‘Three Dumb-F–ks in Over Their Head Route?’”
Both labels were apropos and stuck. If you climb this route in the future, it has been christened for you for all eternity.
We started our hike back to camp when Fate came across and pimp-slapped us again. We had no choice, but to slog across another hour and a half of talus to get back to camp. I think all of us would have sold our souls to the devil just to avoid that part, but alas, the three idiots in over their head would have to pay for their hubris in the mountains. Physically, we all had felt fine just after the down-climb, however, with each successive step on the talus, we rapidly started fading.
We were within ten minutes of camp, most of us holding back vomit from the over-exertion, when we came to a fork where we could walk to the left or right around a lake to get back to camp. We chose left, walked about fifty feet and Rich let out a howl realizing that the lake led right to a cliffed out area. We’d have to climb up to the top of this ledge, which under normal circumstances would have been easy for Paris Hilton in four-inch heels carrying both chiwawas, but hard for three guys that were just about at the end of their respective ropes.
Rich plodded up the hill and I looked back and saw that Ed was totally dejected. I forced my way up, reached deep inside my gut to put on half-a-smile and said, “Hey Ed, it’s not so bad.”
“Bullshit, it isn’t, it sucks!”
“Thanks, Rich.”
Ed laughed, but mostly cried plodding up the hill.
Anyway, we wandered around, found camp with our ropes sitting unused and mocking us. Rich passed out within minutes and Ed and I tried to put up the tent, but instead laughed ourselves silly “singing” more Too Short songs. The tent eventually got up and we were fast asleep dreaming of three-egg omlettes at Jack’s when we’d reach Bishop ten hours from then.
The allusive Mount Humphreys will have to wait until next year. It’s funny how you can be in the worst of circumstances, but end up being all good when you are with the right people.

Mt Humphreys from the summit of Mt Muriel



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